
Make your own WTC.
"I'll experiment and make one myself!" I hear you cry.
No need to 'experiment' The 'experimenting is DONE! Would you fly in a prototype aircraft? No, of course not. So why would you consider experimenting with a WTC? You have everything to lose! It's usually a one-way trip to the bottom!
Here is a list of pricing from a model submarine 'parts' supplier.
- Ballast Tank 38.00
- Basic Pressure Hull 57.00
- Tray Set (for above) 25.00
- Clippard Valve 33.00
- Vent Solenoid 13.50
- Electric Motor 10.00
- Motor Drive System ADS 33.50
- Adapt a Drive (drives 2 props from I motor) 29.00
- SES Switch (Drives Clippard Valve) 37.00
- Fittings & Hose set 6.00
- Tank Valve (for gas tank) 6.50
- Rubber Boots 6.50
- SBS Stuffing Box 12.00
- Linkage Seals 14.95
- Instructions 20.00
- Copper Pipe and End Caps 3.00
- Dumas Couplers 8.00
354.95
D&E Sub-drivers start at $420, so for $65 you want to make your own?
You've spent over $350 and you have HOURS of work to do. Worse, it is SO easy to make a mistake, especially for a novice, and you could have flooded tanks, ruining valuable electronic parts.
Using Clippard valves, which are supposed to operate in DRY environments, to expel gas into the ballast tank, is asking for trouble. With the D&E Sub-driver, the gas tank discharges using a servo operating through a seal, to open a Schrader type tire valve. The same servo operates a neat, custom formed valve to release gas, letting the tank flood. Both valve and servo are easily maintained, and are easy to replace.
If your boat has twin propellers, then you'll find the D&E twin motors and installed gearboxes much less problematic than trying to convert one motor to run two shafts.
Get a D&E Sub-driver and save yourself a TON of money and trouble! |